A Saturday in Krakow

View of the sunset over the Krakow Market Square.

This last weekend I had a too short, culture-packed weekend in Krakow. Arranged through my internship placement program, the schedule was a bit more chaotic than what I would have chosen, but I am very happy I got to spend some more time in this gorgeous city.

Last time I was in Krakow was winter of 2010. It was a very different experience to see the city in June. Krakow is beautiful, but it's much easier to enjoy in the warm sunshine.

Speaking of warm sunshine, we had a lot of it this weekend. Temperatures were close to 80, which is quite warm in countries without AC. However, it was perfect sightseeing weather!

Saturday morning, Julie, Paulina (our program director), Tyson (Paulina's pit bull), and I took an 8 AM train from Warsaw to Krakow. I was super impressed with the Polish rail system. Our train was very nice and modern. They even brought around free tea, water, coffee, and juice during our 3 hour trip--quite impressive for second class tickets.

Upon arriving in Krakow we dropped our stuff off at the hostel, and got to sightseeing. We booked a tour out to the Wieliczka Salt Mines for the afternoon, so all of our touring of Krakow had to be done in the few midday hours we had free. We squeezed a surprising amount in! Julie and I started off walking  around the historic Jewish Quarter. Unfortunately, it has not been reclaimed, as the remaining Jewish population in Poland (which was very small) mostly dispersed after the war. It's now a very artsy district filled with students. Worth seeing, though sad all of the same. From there we walked across the river to the less touristy side of Krakow, where we ate lunch at a cute cafe before continuing on our speed-sightseeing tour. While there isn't much in terms of tourist attractions across the river, it is a different side of Krakow than most people see, and worth the short walk. For instance, you see a lot more of the political side of the city. In Poland, the gay rights movement is a much debated issue, especially in traditionally Catholic communities such as Krakow. Politically driven graffiti, such as the picture below, is something that isn't so visible on the tourist streets around the castle and old town.

Graffiti in Krakow

Back on the main side of the river, we climbed to the top of Wawel hill to see the Wawel Castle and Krakow Cathedral. These are two of my favorite sights in the city, and were definitely much more enjoyable in warm weather. While Warsaw is the modern day capital of Poland, and has been the capital historically, Krakow served as a capital during various periods in Polish history. During one of these periods, Wawel Castle was built to host the court. My favorite part isn't actually the castle, which is rather modest by European standards, but the Krakow Cathedral (or, more difficulty, the Royal Archcathedral Basilica of Saints Stanislaus and Wenceslaus on the Wawel Hill), which is a hodgepodge of architectural styles, myths, and religion.  It boasts "dragon bones" hanging outside one of the entrances, served historically as a coronation site, and is now one of the most prestigious burial grounds for notable Poles. It is also the place Pope John Paul II offered his first mass as a priest in 1946.

Krakow Cathedral

From the cathedral we made our way back to the Old Town and Market Square. We walked by one of my favorite locations in Krakow, the Pope John Paul II window. The Krakovians are obsessed with JPII, and I am obsessed with their obsession. This window, located at the Bishop's Palace, contains a photo of Pope John Paul II year round. Even better, they change it out seasonally (you wouldn't want the pope wearing white after labor day, now would you?).

The Pope window at the Bishop's Palace in Krakow.

After quite a bit of sightseeing for just a few hours, Julie and I then went on a bus 30 minutes outside of the city, to the Wieliczka Salt Mines. The Mines are a little bizarre and super cool. Whether you're in Krakow at the coldest part of winter or warmest part of summer, the salt mines are always a temperate 14 degrees centigrade, which is just one excellent reason to tour them! The Salt Mines still have a few levels that are operational, though most are just part of the amazing tour. There are a ton of salt sculptures throughout the mines, salt chapels, and just different kinds of salt. The tour is historical in nature. The mines are impressive, as they are very extensive. Mining first began in the area in the 13th century, so the feats of engineering and its evolution provide an interesting structural contrast throughout the mines. Also, in case you aren't thoroughly convinced that a salt mine is worth seeing, its a UNESCO World Heritage Site!

The kings were very important in the salt mining industry. As the value of salt was quite high (worth more in weight than gold) and miners got paid in salt, it was very prestigious to be a salt miner. The king bestowed the right to be a salt miner among select citizens of the kingdom, and it was a privilege that could be passed down from father to children (daughter's husbands would have the right to be salt miners).

The mines have carvings everywhere, including quite a few "salt mine gnomes," who are apparently quite helpful in the mining process.

I mean, it's 30 miles from Krakow, so of course there is a salt statue of Pope John Paul II. When I said obsessed, I meant it.

The salt mines tour was very interesting, and it was nice to escape the heat for a bit. Upon our return to Krakow, Julie and I wandered around Old Town for a bit, before dinner and an early night. It was truly a spectacular Saturday in Krakow. The very best part may have been watching the sunset from our hostel, Hostel 7 Rynek (which was clean, comfortable, had had the most amazing view). There's no better way to end a day in Krakow than by watching the sunset behind the Sukiennice!