Exploring Gdansk

So, I figured before I head out on another adventure, I should update y'all on my last one. Last Friday, I left work a bit early to catch a train North to Gdansk (sometimes translated into English as Danzig). The train ride from Warsaw to Gdansk is roughly five hours, or so they say. It took me about six hours to get there on Friday. As the hostel I stayed at had someone at the desk 24 hours, and I didn't have any set plans for the evening, this wasn't a huge deal. However, as they didn't actually announce any sort of delays in any language, I did freak out for the last 45 minutes that I was possibly on the wrong train, and was going to end up who knows where! I guess that year in Switzerland really gave me unrealistic expectations about railways in the rest of the world. Fortunately, I eventually arrived at the Gdansk train station, ready for a drink and a little exploring. 

Friday night, as it was rather late, I only made a short walk around old town and grabbed some dinner. As it was the night before the super moon, it was really beautiful, and perfect weather/moonlight for a midnight walk. I knew from just that first stroll around that I was going to love Gdansk. It has a lot of charm--it's picturesque at every turn.

A view of Gdansk Old Town and the Mortlawa River

Saturday I had a busy day, as I quickly realized I really needed about a solid week to see everything I would have liked, but I still wanted to squeeze as much as possible in. My main goal for Saturday was to head out to historic Malbork Castle. The castle was built for the Teutonic Knights, a Germanic Roman Catholic group of crusaders, and claims to be the largest castle in the world by surface area (which I believe after spending hours walking through it, and I'm sure still missing out on parts of it) and the largest brick building in Europe. The castle, built as a fortress for the knights, was completed in 1406. It housed the Teutonic Order until 1466, when Polish forces captured it and it became a royal residence and a part of Royal Prussia. It mostly remained in Polish hand until 1772, though Swedish forces occupied it for brief periods in the 1620's and 1650's. Regardless, it's old, it's historic, and it's absolutely breathtaking. 

Part of the fortified castle wall still remains standing (note that it was an absolutely beautiful day for castle exploration).

Everything in the castle was beautifully thought out, down to the most miniscule detail. This room, where all of the windows had multicolored glass in diamond patterns, was one of my favorites. 

One of many cathedrals in Malbork Castle, most of the interior was destroyed during WWII. However, the doorway, which boasts beautiful carvings, was salvaged and restored. While it is impressive to see how well they've managed to restore the castle after the war (especially when you see photos of how badly it was bombed), there are still aspects they are working on almost 70 years later. 

These represent several of the Teutonic Grand Masters. They used to be at the base of a larger statue, which was destroyed. 

This room contained this "throne," and then 4 walls of seats with various sigils and house names. Maybe it was the fact that I've been reading Game of Thrones, but I found it to be especially interesting. Plus, sitting in a throne is always super fun (I could probably rule a small principality). 

After several hours of exploring Malbork, I took the train back to Gdansk. While it had only taken me 30 minutes to get to Malbork, the return trip to me almost an hour. At one point our train even stopped and then proceeded to go in the opposite direction. Do trains accidentally make wrong turns? Is that a thing? At least on the return trip I made a new acquaintance. I talked to an American woman from New Hampshire who was in Poland meeting extended family and traveling. We bonded over our inability to understand what was happening with our train.

Upon my return to Gdansk, I took to exploring the Old Town. I walked all over, admiring the beautiful facades of old homes, the elaborate decoration of marketplaces, armories, and city halls, and discovering church after church, each one more impressive than the last. The most impressive thing I saw was St. Mary's Church. It's the largest brick church in the world. As a side note, I realized quickly that Gdansk is like the Texas of Poland--everything is bigger and better. I kind of loved it. Anyway, super impressive, colossal brick church. If you want to explore the inside, you have to pay 4 PLN (which is just a little more than a dollar), but it's completely worth it. The church has beautiful stained glass, and every corner holds some sort of art or memorial. It is impressive in size alone, but it is also truly beautiful.

The stained glass work is gorgeous. 

As you may remember from my post about Krakow, the Poles are obsessed with JPII. For the people of Gdansk, he was very inspirational in their Solidarity movement. 

My favorite thing about Gothic churches is the use of skulls and crossbones--it's a little creepy, and little fabulous.

One of my favorite Papal traditions, is leaving signs, statues, or gifts, with the Papal seal, that essentially let everyone know "the Pope was here" (in this case, JPII). 

After a few more hours of walking, and a delicious dinner out on the town, I returned to my hostel, more than happy to rest for a bit.

At the Neptune Statue in Old Town Gdansk

My hostel turned out to be a great choice for me as a solo traveler. It was in a safe location, near Old Town, but far enough away from a main street so that it was quiet. In the evenings, they had a great media/lounge space. Though I'd planned to go to sleep as soon as I got back, they were showing The Intouchables, a French film I'd really wanted to see. So, against my better judgment, I stayed up until after midnight for the film. It was truly spectacular. And hey, how can I really say I made the most of my summer in Europe if I actually get reasonable amounts of sleep...especially on the weekends?

Sunday, I got up bright and early to squeeze in some more sightseeing before I had to head back to Warsaw. This day I spent in Gdansk, exploring the roots of the Solidarnosc (Solidarity) movement. Solidarnosc, at its roots, is a trade union. It was started at the Gdansk Shipyard (then the Lenin Shipyard) under the leadership of Lech Walesa. It was the first non-communist controlled trade union in any Warsaw Pact country. By September 1981, it had 9.5 million members, representing 1/3 of the total working age population of Poland. Throughout the 1980's, Solidarnosc became a social movement as much as a trade union, employing methods of civil resistance to advance causes of workers rights and sociopolitical change. At one point, the government implemented martial law in an attempt to end Solidarnosc, but the union and its members held their ground, forcing Soviet leadership to negotiate. These negotiations took place as the "Round Table Talks," in Warsaw. The end result was the first (semi-) free elections in a Warsaw Pact country. The Solidarnosc movement is regarded by many, as the first steps in ending the Soviet Union and Communist rule across Central and Eastern Europe. 

I got to see the shipyards where the movement started. They're really quite impressive, and a little sad at the same time. Many of the shipbuilding companies are facing hard economic times, and the entire area is threatened. The cranes that are a part of the landscape and the story of Polish freedom, may not be in place much longer. 

A memorial for the shipyard workers and civilians, killed during a political clash in the 1970's. It was built by volunteers of the Solidarnosc movement during the 1980s, and made a huge statement for the movement and its goals of peaceful resolution.

After the shipyards, I visited the Roads to Freedom museum, which told more of the story of the Solidarnosc movement. It was truly an impressive morning, and I learned so much about the history of Poland that I had not previously known. It was a busy 36 hours in Gdansk before taking the train back to Warsaw, but I certainly enjoyed every minute of it!

Time Flies When You're Having Fun!

Last week in the office wasn't particularly busy by usual standards, but it just kind of flew by. It was still "casual week" in the office, which is a guaranteed good time! Tuesday I legitimately accomplished almost nothing, and I loved it. We spent the morning and part of the afternoon talking about how the American government works (or doesn't), explaining college football, and talking about school spirit at universities (which always makes me miss Texas A&M). While little work was done, it was a big step, in my opinion, in really developing personal relationships with my summer colleagues.

Wednesday night I met up with the other American interns, and introduced Matt to the group. We had dinner at a restaurant called Bordo. As usual, the waiter seemed a little overwhelmed with our large, English speaking, boisterous crowd, but it was better than last week's outing, in that we got our bill when we asked for it and not 45 minutes later. After dinner, we all wandered a long way over to a hipster bar. It was lovely, but after one overpriced beer, we headed on out. A few of us went to Matt's apartment to hang out. Turns out, Matt is living the good life in what, at least in comparison to everyone else's situation, seems like a small palace. It's the ideal place for a party though, so we had some drinks, listened to some 80's music, and plotted our next night out on the town.

Thursday was a big first, as I had my first dinner and drinks with colleagues, outside of office hours. There's a great Czech place near Matt's apartment, where we met up. At the urging of Sasha, we ordered a sampler plate. It was suggested that a minimum of 2 people eat it, but even with Sasha, Matt, and  I, we barely made a dent! It was a giant platter of meat (the core of Eastern European diets), with a few potatoes and some red cabbage thrown on for good measure. We also had liter beers (which are one of my favorite things about Europe), and just hung around and talked for several hours. Our coworker Micha came and joined the party for a little while, before he had to head home. I'd call it a successful after work outing on all accounts!

It was a nice, calm week in the office, but really fun socially (especially considering my social calendar in Poland so far has been pretty empty)! Friday I even got to leave work a bit early to head up North and explore Gdansk! It's hard to believe that my third week has already come and gone, but I guess time really flies when you're having fun!

Full fledged tourists (completely rocking the last day of "casual day" office attire) enjoying beer by the liter and giant Polish meat platters!

Living History: Auschwitz and Auschwitz II-Birkenau

The first time I visited Auschwitz and Birkenau was 2.5 years ago. It was after my first semester of studying abroad it Switzerland. Though it was a mild winter, in Poland snow still covered the ground as we trekked around the camp.

This trip was almost the exact opposite of the last in terms of the setting. The cold biting wind of December was replaced with the stifling June heat. Any breeze was welcome as you toured in the direct sunlight for three hours. The contrast was striking, though the tour was equally as powerful each time. I doubt it's one of those things that you could ever get used to. Each tour guide has their own tales to weave into the history. Almost none of Poland was left untouched by WWII, though Auschwitz and Birkenau remain the largest standing memorials to the carnage of Nazi warfare and the millions of Jews, Romas, political prisoners, homosexuals, religious leaders, mentally and physically handicapped, and others who lost their lives during WWII. I personally think, if you're ever anywhere near Auschwitz, it is your moral duty to go see the camps. At some point in your life you should pay witness to the atrocities of WWII, so that we can continue to ensure that such horrors will never happen again.

Just two years after the end of WWII, in 1947, Auschwitz and Birkenau opened as state museums. They were originally run by former prisoners of the camps, which is a true testament to their strength. The grounds have been well maintained, though the SS did manage to destroy a large amount of original documents and several of the largest gas chambers at Birkenau, before leading prisoners on final death marches and attempting to escape the Red Army. The tour guides at Auschwitz are all professionally trained, and very well versed in the history. Though the tour can seem to be a sterilized version of the history, it is almost necessary in order to allow people to cope with the emotionally draining walk through the massive grounds.

The tour starts in Auschwitz I. The Germans made use of old Polish military bunkers, creating the first barracks and camp grounds from brick buildings. You enter at the gate reading "Arbeit Macht Frei" (work will set you free), which is the same gate prisoners left through to work every morning, and hoped to live to see as they returned at night.

Arbeit Macht Frei gate that serves at the primary entrance and exit to Auschwitz I. 

There's something about walking through that gate that makes the reality of Auschwitz sink in. It's not a feeling I can truly describe, but it is something that is very real as you walk down the gravel paths of the camp--a growing acceptance of the magnitude of the horror that occurred.

The tour of Auschwitz lasts two hours and takes you through several permanent exhibits. The Soviets liberated Auschwitz and did their best to keep documentation. As a result, the thousands of shoes, prayer shawls, pots and pans, and suitcases that they found in the grounds called "Canada" are now on display. Most of what was collected from the prisoners (many who thought they were being permanently relocated to the East), was shipped to Germany for reuse in the Reich. What remains is just a sliver of the precious belongings of the millions who came through Auschwitz.

Suitcases collected at the Auschwitz train station. Though most of the "prisoners" brought only their most precious and necessary belongings (they were allowed one 25 kilogram suitcase), they never saw them again. Most of the suitcases have names and birth dates, to mark them in case they got lost.

After the tour of Auschwitz is complete, you travel to Auschwitz II-Birkenau, the larger of the camps, which is four kilometers away. Though Auschwitz was a re-purposed camp, Auschwitz II-Birkenau was built specifically as a concentration camp. However, the Nazis did not correctly predict the amount of prisoners they would capture, so the "women's camp" is the original barracks (meant to house all of the prisoners) and the "men's camp" is what were originally horse stables. Though Auschwitz contains all of the primary exhibits, Birkenau is quite impressive in its size and feeling of desolation. You enter the camp through the main gate where the train stop was, then you make the one kilometer hike, the same hike that so many prisoners made, along the train tracks to where the gas chambers used to be. 

The "final walk" from the main gate, along the railroad tracks, to the gas chambers at Auschwitz II-Birkenau.

The gas chambers were blown up by the Nazis before the fled the camp, in an attempt to hide what was truly happening at Birkenau. Near their charred remains today lies a memorial for all of those who lost their lives. It is displayed in several different languages. The English translation reads, "For ever let this place be a cry of despair and a warning to humanity, where the Nazis murdered about one and a half million men, women, and children, mainly Jews, from various countries of Europe. Auschwitz-Birkenau, 1940-1945."

For me, my second trip to Auschwitz and Birkenau was just as powerful as the first. I don't think it's something that I could ever become complacent with though--the true horror of history is just as relevant and just as resounding with each visit. 

Krakow is a beautiful city, and so different from Warsaw, because it hardly bears any scars from the war. However, just an hour away will always be Auschwitz, ready to stand as a testament to the crimes of the Nazi regime, working to ensure that they never happen again.

Two views of Birkenau. The top photo is from my trip to the camps in December 2010, and the photo below is from my June 2013 trip. In winter or summer, the harsh realities of daily life in the environment are all too clear.

 

Never forget, never again.

A Saturday in Krakow

View of the sunset over the Krakow Market Square.

This last weekend I had a too short, culture-packed weekend in Krakow. Arranged through my internship placement program, the schedule was a bit more chaotic than what I would have chosen, but I am very happy I got to spend some more time in this gorgeous city.

Last time I was in Krakow was winter of 2010. It was a very different experience to see the city in June. Krakow is beautiful, but it's much easier to enjoy in the warm sunshine.

Speaking of warm sunshine, we had a lot of it this weekend. Temperatures were close to 80, which is quite warm in countries without AC. However, it was perfect sightseeing weather!

Saturday morning, Julie, Paulina (our program director), Tyson (Paulina's pit bull), and I took an 8 AM train from Warsaw to Krakow. I was super impressed with the Polish rail system. Our train was very nice and modern. They even brought around free tea, water, coffee, and juice during our 3 hour trip--quite impressive for second class tickets.

Upon arriving in Krakow we dropped our stuff off at the hostel, and got to sightseeing. We booked a tour out to the Wieliczka Salt Mines for the afternoon, so all of our touring of Krakow had to be done in the few midday hours we had free. We squeezed a surprising amount in! Julie and I started off walking  around the historic Jewish Quarter. Unfortunately, it has not been reclaimed, as the remaining Jewish population in Poland (which was very small) mostly dispersed after the war. It's now a very artsy district filled with students. Worth seeing, though sad all of the same. From there we walked across the river to the less touristy side of Krakow, where we ate lunch at a cute cafe before continuing on our speed-sightseeing tour. While there isn't much in terms of tourist attractions across the river, it is a different side of Krakow than most people see, and worth the short walk. For instance, you see a lot more of the political side of the city. In Poland, the gay rights movement is a much debated issue, especially in traditionally Catholic communities such as Krakow. Politically driven graffiti, such as the picture below, is something that isn't so visible on the tourist streets around the castle and old town.

Graffiti in Krakow

Back on the main side of the river, we climbed to the top of Wawel hill to see the Wawel Castle and Krakow Cathedral. These are two of my favorite sights in the city, and were definitely much more enjoyable in warm weather. While Warsaw is the modern day capital of Poland, and has been the capital historically, Krakow served as a capital during various periods in Polish history. During one of these periods, Wawel Castle was built to host the court. My favorite part isn't actually the castle, which is rather modest by European standards, but the Krakow Cathedral (or, more difficulty, the Royal Archcathedral Basilica of Saints Stanislaus and Wenceslaus on the Wawel Hill), which is a hodgepodge of architectural styles, myths, and religion.  It boasts "dragon bones" hanging outside one of the entrances, served historically as a coronation site, and is now one of the most prestigious burial grounds for notable Poles. It is also the place Pope John Paul II offered his first mass as a priest in 1946.

Krakow Cathedral

From the cathedral we made our way back to the Old Town and Market Square. We walked by one of my favorite locations in Krakow, the Pope John Paul II window. The Krakovians are obsessed with JPII, and I am obsessed with their obsession. This window, located at the Bishop's Palace, contains a photo of Pope John Paul II year round. Even better, they change it out seasonally (you wouldn't want the pope wearing white after labor day, now would you?).

The Pope window at the Bishop's Palace in Krakow.

After quite a bit of sightseeing for just a few hours, Julie and I then went on a bus 30 minutes outside of the city, to the Wieliczka Salt Mines. The Mines are a little bizarre and super cool. Whether you're in Krakow at the coldest part of winter or warmest part of summer, the salt mines are always a temperate 14 degrees centigrade, which is just one excellent reason to tour them! The Salt Mines still have a few levels that are operational, though most are just part of the amazing tour. There are a ton of salt sculptures throughout the mines, salt chapels, and just different kinds of salt. The tour is historical in nature. The mines are impressive, as they are very extensive. Mining first began in the area in the 13th century, so the feats of engineering and its evolution provide an interesting structural contrast throughout the mines. Also, in case you aren't thoroughly convinced that a salt mine is worth seeing, its a UNESCO World Heritage Site!

The kings were very important in the salt mining industry. As the value of salt was quite high (worth more in weight than gold) and miners got paid in salt, it was very prestigious to be a salt miner. The king bestowed the right to be a salt miner among select citizens of the kingdom, and it was a privilege that could be passed down from father to children (daughter's husbands would have the right to be salt miners).

The mines have carvings everywhere, including quite a few "salt mine gnomes," who are apparently quite helpful in the mining process.

I mean, it's 30 miles from Krakow, so of course there is a salt statue of Pope John Paul II. When I said obsessed, I meant it.

The salt mines tour was very interesting, and it was nice to escape the heat for a bit. Upon our return to Krakow, Julie and I wandered around Old Town for a bit, before dinner and an early night. It was truly a spectacular Saturday in Krakow. The very best part may have been watching the sunset from our hostel, Hostel 7 Rynek (which was clean, comfortable, had had the most amazing view). There's no better way to end a day in Krakow than by watching the sunset behind the Sukiennice!

Just Another Week in Warsaw

Is week 2 really over already? I cannot believe how fast it went. It's probably due to the fact that the first part of this week was pretty crazy. Monday and Tuesday were research days, working a lot with regards to the upcoming Warsaw Euro Atlantic Summer Academy, which the GMF is cohosting along with the College of Europe (Natolin campus) and the Polish American Freedom Foundation. It's a huge event for our office--two weeks of hosting a variety of people and activities. I'm pretty excited about it, as I should get to hear several of the really amazing speakers on the agenda when the conference rolls around at the end of July.

Wednesday was a big day for the office. We had the pleasure of hosting a GMF non-resident Transatlantic fellow, Celeste Wallander. Dr. Wallander is a specialist on Russia and the surrounding areas, the former U.S. Deputy Assistant Secretary of Defense for Russia, Ukraine, and Eurasia for the first term of the Obama administration, and a current professor at American University's School of International Service (so...kind of a big deal). Dr. Wallander, in between meetings with a variety of officials, think tanks, and NGOs, participated on a panel to discuss her paper "Russian Defense and Security Policy in 2013: How Russia is NOT Stuck in the Cold War and Why that is a Problem," alongside former U.S. ambassador to Poland (and newly appointed GMF fellow), Lee Feinstein, and  former Minister of National Defense of Poland, Janusz Onyszkiewicz.

I actually had the big task of taking notes on the event and producing my first official office write up. You can read it on the GMF website, here: http://www.gmfus.org/archives/russian-defense-and-security-policy-in-2013-how-russia-is-not-stuck-in-the-cold-war-and-why-that-is-a-problem/
(Sadly, no writing credits are given, but it's more than just a little exciting to have something I wrote up on the GMF website!)

After the event, most of the office got to go to lunch with Dr. Wallander. We went to a tasty Serbian place around the corner, and got to talk to her for an hour about a variety of things. She's an amazing woman, and very down to Earth, especially given how accomplished she is.

Thursday and Friday were much anticipated days in the office, because our fearless leader Michał is gone to a conference. Apparently, this means slightly more casual days. (It's sort of like the kids being given free reign of a home--there's some joy in being a little lax on the rules, but you don't want any trouble from Mom and Dad when they come home!) As I discovered Thursday, casual not only applies to your dress during this time period, but also to the time you arrive (to a certain extent). I took full advantage of that and came in at 9:35 today (and was still the second person there). It's definitely a different atmosphere, though it's still been very productive. I've been doing some research on unconventional fossil fuels, such as shale gas, for the office recently, and I'm thoroughly enjoying expanding my knowledge on such a hot-topic issue.

Thursday night was fun because I met up with several American interns (all working for a variety of different companies), for a night out in Warsaw. Most of the group I had only briefly met at an orientation session, so it was certainly fun to get to know them better. We had a delicious dinner at an authentic Italian restaurant on Nowy Świat. Unfortunately, our waitress wasn't having her best night. Well over half an hour after finishing our meal (maybe even closer to an hour), we finally got our check and could leave. We then settled for some cheap beers on one of the many outdoor patio areas that are set up in the area during the summer months. As I didn't get home until after midnight, late start/casual Friday was much appreciated!

Fun night out on Nowy Świat in Warsaw.

This weekend I'll be heading out of Warsaw to travel to Krakow. Julie (my roommate), Paulina (our Polish "intern abroad liaison"), and I leave bright and early tomorrow morning (I'm hoping to be able to nap some on the train). It'll be my first of 3 weekend trips around Poland (I'm also going to Gdansk and Lublin), and I'm very much looking forward to getting out and exploring.

The End of Week 1

Looking back, I can't believe I've only been here a week as of yesterday. In the best possible way, it seems like I've been here much longer (minus the bursts of lingering jet lag). I'm all settled in at work, I'm becoming comfortable with the city...I'm afraid 8 weeks is going to go by before I know it!

The rest of my work week was certainly busy. I feel like I'm going non-stop throughout the work day, and I kind of love it. Wednesday was full of steady research for a July project, then Thursday I came in to discover a paper I was assigned for Friday needed to be finished that day (and by 2!). The 2:00 deadline was a little rough, though completely worth it. While the rest of the office attended an event held in Polish, Matt and I got to go out to the National Defense University of Warsaw to hear the Secretary General of NATO, Anders Fogh Rasmussen speak. As it was the anniversary of D-Day, he tied in some very poignant recollections of the events that led to the creation of NATO, and reinforced that, contrary to the belief of some, it still has work to do to fulfill its mission. I was impressed at how much the Secretary General really applauded U.S. efforts in NATO. Since the speech was geared toward a European crowd, I thought it was quite possible that the theme would be more pro-European. However, while applauding the efforts of Poland in NATO, Rasmussen also discussed the need for EU members to all step up to the challenges of modern security, and not leave the U.S. alone in funding NATO. While some points I disagreed with (like declaring the mission in Afghanistan a "success") , I found Rasmussen to be both encouraging and direct about the challenges facing the future of the NATO partnership.

Secretary General of NATO Rasmussen addresses Polish military officials, international dignitaries, professors, and students at an event hosted by the National Defense University of Warsaw

Friday was yet another busy day in the office (I actually worked overtime on my first Friday), but included a fun "field trip" to the outside world. Micha took Matt and I to a potential conference site, and out to lunch (it was the first time this week I didn't have a "working lunch"). We went to a milk bar, which is a holdover from the Communist era. There used to be more than 50 in Warsaw alone, but only 3 still survive today. The Solidarity Fund, which helps to preserve historical aspects of Warsaw, is a huge part of why there are even 3 left today. The one we went to is located on ul. Nowy Świat, a very trendy street in Warsaw. It's one of those things you'd walk right past if you didn't know it was there--it has a very bland facade, and no sidewalk seating like many of its neighboring restaurants. Once you enter, it looks rather plain, though it's filled to the brim with locals. It's a place that would be very difficult to go to as a tourist, as the menu is entirely in Polish, and the staff only speaks Polish. Luckily for Matt and I, we had Micha as our guide. The food is comfort food at its finest--simple, unrefined, traditional dishes that remind Poles of childhood meals. I had an amazing tomato soup with rice, followed by nalesniki, which are crepes filled with ricotta and covered in a delicious vanilla sauce with sugar. It's one of the best meals I've had thus far in Poland, and it only cost me 5 zloty (which is about $1.50). It was the perfect experience to end my first week at my internship.

Also, toward the end of the week, we received our office photo from the event we hosted Monday night. Considering this was after 10 hours of being in the office, I think we look pretty good!

From left to right: Matt (fellow intern, from Rhodes College); Micha; Sasha; Michal (new office director); Ivan (Vice President of GMF); Magda; Me; and Jacob

Happy to have survived the work week, I came home for a bit before exploring dinner options with Julie. We tried Bombaj Masala, an Indian restaurant nearby that has received quite good reviews. It was delicious! Then I enjoyed a solid 10 hours of sleep--which was more than welcomed after this crazy week (not setting an alarm is one of the best feelings in the world).

Saturday was a big sightseeing day. I did enjoy sleeping in, but certainly made up for it with lots of walking and exploring afterwards. Julie, Matt, and I met up and went to the Warsaw Uprising Museum, which I thoroughly enjoyed. It has an exceptional amount of information, and is certainly a place you could visit multiple times without truly seeing everything. I suggest, if you do plan to visit, you make sure to read up on the Uprising a bit first. If you had no prior knowledge of the event, I expect it would be a bit difficult to follow. The museum has all displays in both Polish and English, and follows the events of the Uprising from the German occupation in Poland to the end of the war. There is a lot of text, in addition to a variety of different displays. If you are a gun aficionado, there are more weapons in this collection than in any other WWII period museum I've visited. Certainly an interesting addition. 

This is a replica of a makeshift radio station that Varsovians set up to communicate with both the Polish government in exile and resistance forces during the war. The museum really puts into perspective how hard the Polish fought for their freedom, and how fearlessly they pursued it. 

The museum contains many perspectives on the Warsaw Uprising. As you explore the many exhibits, it becomes painfully obvious how, if given proper support from any of the Allied forces, the Varsovians could have been successful, or at least been spared from complete destruction of their city and population. This excerpt from Czselaw Milosz's "Captive Mind" gives the unfortunate truth about why the Soviets saw it in their best interest not to help the Poles.

In addition to the history of WWII and the Warsaw Uprising, the Warsaw Uprising museum also discusses the beginning of the Communist state in Poland, starting with events in Lublin, a city I will visit later this month.

After several hours in the museum, Julie, Matt, and I walked around Warsaw, going through old town into new town (which technically is older than old town, because less of it was destroyed in the war). At the recommendation of Julie's friend Lara, we tried a nice restaurant that specialized in both Polish and Jewish cuisine. We sat outside, enjoyed the warm weather, good food, and some beer, before continuing our walk around the city.

We came upon two more interesting sites. The first was an art gallery hosting some sort of large public event. Anyone could go in and paint on the art gallery walls or make sculptures from cardboard boxes they had out. It was an interesting project, though I'm not quite sure of the real meaning behind it. It seemed to be related to several things we saw across the street on the subject of the solidarnosc movement, but other than that small bit of word recognition, we really had no idea what was going on.

The public could add their personal touch to the walls of the gallery. When we walked by to go to dinner, the walls were completely white. This is what we discovered on our way back.

Just across the street from the gallery, we found a really interesting public display in one of Warsaw's many parks. This contained large prints of some of the only colored photos of Warsaw after the war. Taken by an American engineer in 1947, they just recently became public. The display contained a large version of the colored photo of destroyed Warsaw (even 2 years after the end of the war, little visible progress had been made at rebuilding), alongside a photo of what the area previously looked like, and another photo of what is there now. It was absolutely incredible. The destruction reminded me of photos of cities after natural disasters--what places look like when hurricanes or tsunamis blow through. However, this was on the scale of the entire city. It's estimated 85% of Warsaw was destroyed in the war, and, of the remaining 15%, not a building was left unscathed. What's most horrifying, at least to me, is that this is not the result of a natural disaster, but the result of human action. Seeing these photos really puts the fighting spirit of the Poles and the Varsovians into perspective. 

Photo display of Warsaw post-WWII

After a long afternoon and evening, and several miles of walking, we ended our night with a trip to the movie theater. It was my first trip to the nearby mall, and I was impressed. Considering that the country has been capitalist for 25 years, they have certainly embraced it. The mall is huge, and everything was open until at least 10. The movie (The Place Beyond the Pines) was good, as was the company. And there's something to be said for the comfort of going into a movie theater, apart from the Polish previews, you'd never know you weren't at home. 

After a long day yesterday, it seems that Sunday is going to be a lazy day of movies and rest, maybe with some necessary grocery shopping, before Monday kicks off another busy work week. My first week in Poland has been wonderful--I can't wait to see what the next one has in store.

First Impressions: The Internship

I've been at my internship for 3 days now, and it has been 3 incredibly long and incredibly wonderful days!

For those not familiar with my assignment, I am working with the German Marshall Fund of the United States (http://www.gmfus.org/). Started in 1972, the GMF began with a gift from the German people as a thank you for all of the aid and support supplied to their country through the Marshall Program. That money has grown through investments, and today the GMF has expanded from its original headquarters encompass 12 offices, headquartered in D.C., with branches throughout Europe and MENA. The Warsaw office is the second newest, being only 2 years old, but it is making waves in the increasingly popular Eastern European capital.

The GMF Warsaw office

My "home base" at GMF. My office is the one in the foreground.

It turns out my first week was an unexpectedly hectic one in the office. The director of the Warsaw office recently decided to leave to explore other opportunities, so his farewell gala was the first night of my arrival (good thing I leaned towards being "overdressed" on my first day). I spent 10 hours in the office that day (10 wonderful hours)! I had the privilege of having coffee and speaking with Ivan Vejvoda, Vice President of Programs for GMF followed by an evening of welcoming foreign dignitaries to the office...I even managed to do some research in between! The office is now overseen by Michal Baranowski, and does an incredible amount of work with only 4 other full time employees.

Since my first day, things have calmed down a bit, but I am certain it is going to be a busy summer. The events just seem to keep coming in waves, and the office needs all hands on deck. Warsaw has gotten increasingly "trendy" in the Euro scene recently, and for good reason. The capital is a manageable size, is close to Russia while still being in the EU, is capable of hosting English as a working language, is affordable, and plays home to as many think tanks, NGOs, and IGOs as Paris, London, or Berlin--at the same time offering more opportunities among a more tight-knit community.

One thing I'm still trying to get a grip on is the Polish sense of time. Everyone in my office is very friendly, and very helpful. I was told my hours would be 9-5, and one of the guys in my office discussed how important timeliness was to the Poles. So, I've been showing up just prior to 9 A.M., only to discover I'm the first one there. The other intern, Matt, also an American and from Rhodes University, gets there just after me, and the rest of the office rolls in sometime between 9:15 and 10. My supervisor mentioned that when I'm done at 5, I should go ahead and leave, so yesterday I left at 5 and today at 5:15, and I was the first person to leave. Does my being early make up for that? I haven't decided, but it's certainly one of the issues when trying to figure out office etiquette.

Time aside, I really think I'm going to enjoy my internship. The verdict is so far, so good!

In other news, we're still discovering some oddities in our Communist-era apartment. For instance, my roommate Julie discovered the unfortunate way that, if you lock the door and leave, and someone is still in the apartment, that person is locked in the apartment. Luckily I got her message and got her out in time for her to make her internship, but it was definitely a not-so-fun experience (and only a minor fire hazard). Otherwise, the living situation is good. Our apartment isn't fancy, but it's comfortable, and the Wi-Fi is great!

This first week is already flying by, though I admit I'm quite ready for a reprieve (and maybe the opportunity to catch up on some sleep) this weekend!

First Impressions: Warsaw

Old Town Tour and the Palace of Culture--Photos from my first days in Warsaw

This is my second morning in Warsaw, and I already know I am going to love it. For a city, especially a capital city, Warsaw feels very peaceful and very green. The hustle and bustle that dominates Western society seems to be lessened here--from your first moments in the city, you seem to get the impression that the Polish enjoy life more.

The Fountain at Saxon Park

The language is difficult to say the least. Paulina, who works with my program, has been trying to teach my roommate Julie and I some basic phrases. Julie, who speaks German, seems to retain them well, but my romance language training does nothing to help me. Dzien dobry, the traditional greeting, is about as far as I've gotten. My next phrase to master is "Przeprazam, nie mowie po polsku", which translates to, "I'm sorry, I don't speak Polish."

The food is delicious, but very heavy. Meals of perogis and potato pancakes will quickly fill you up. I'm glad I've been able to find some good fruit at the grocery store--it balances out the carb heavy meals nicely.

 

Potato Pancakes with red cabbage and beer at Podwale

My Warsaw accommodations aren't the prettiest, but they are comfortable. Our apartment has really great light, and a beautiful view that includes the Palace of Culture.

View from my apartment living room

So far, my first impression of Warsaw is very positive. The people I've interacted with are all very friendly and the city is gorgeous. Today my adventure continues with my first meeting at the German Marshall Foundation. I'm excited to see how work culture compares to my general impressions, and to learn more about my assignment.

Do zobaczenia!