Tuesday, July 16, 2013

Home Again in Dublin


There's many cities I've been to that I really enjoy, but none I have ever loved quite like Dublin. All last week I anticipated my flight to the emerald isle, and, when I landed, it felt a bit like I was coming home.

Being able to make the trip for a three day weekend in Dublin was exciting for many reasons. Not only did I get to explore my favorite city, I got to do so with my Aunt June during her birthday weekend, and I got to see quite the mix of other family and friends.

I arrived in Dublin city center close to 11:30 P.M. on Thursday, and dropped my luggage at the hotel. Facebook told me June, my Uncle Clay, Aunts Stephanie and Gina, and friends Chris and Margie were at the Oliver St. John Gogarty. The hotel was just across the river from the Temple Bar district (which I knew pretty well after living for a summer in Dublin), so I found them without any problem. It was a heavy start to the weekend for certain, and a great one. The group had discovered Baby Guinness shots, which were in high supply for our table. They hadn't liked their Jameson as much, so I was charged with finishing off the remaining glasses, along with my Bulmers (my favorite Irish cider). It was loud and boisterous and wonderful. It felt like I'd never left Dublin at all!

A bottle of Bulmer's at the Gogarty kicked off my weekend in Dublin. The summer I live there, I very clearly remember a boy from Tennessee (interning there with the rest of us) remarking, "Those Aggie girls sure love their Bulmers." It's the truth!

After such a solid Thursday, I certainly enjoyed sleeping in on Friday. Plus, the hotel had a real bed and AC--two things my Warsaw apartment is seriously lacking! We couldn't have asked for better weather. June and I started off our day about noon, by going to grab some much needed lunch at Lemon, a crepe cafe. I opted for an omelette, which I figured would help me back to feeling 100%. Unfortunately, en route to Lemon, someone pickpocketed my Aunt and stole her iPhone. It was a tragic loss, though something that could very much happen to anyone, anywhere.

Hoping she had left it at the hotel (which we found out was not the case), June and I split up for awhile. I took advantage of the weather to enjoy Grafton Street and St. Stephen's Green. I also made my first of two trips to Avoca to lust after some beautiful wool blankets and winter wear (all I bought was a cute tote, though I'm always tempted to get a beautiful blanket). All of Dublin was out soaking up the rare rays and warmth (they've had close to a month of 75 degree highs, which is almost unprecedented in Irish memory). It was quite a sight to see teens, families, and business folk all spread out on the grass and stripped down as much as was socially acceptable. Even more amusing was hearing all of the Irish complain about this "heat" and how long its lasted. Many people even apologized to me for the hot weather during my stay...if only they knew.

All of the Dubliners enjoy some Friday sun at St. Stephen's Green

Beautiful day on the Green

Upon meeting back up with June (who remained phone-less) we walked down to Merrion Square Park, where we caught part of the Street Performers' World Championships. It was interesting for sure, though questionable with regards to how entertaining some acts actually were.

Some inspiring words in Merrion Square Park

Georgian door down on Merrion Square

Views from my Friday in Dublin

We headed back Friday afternoon to meet up with everyone at the hotel. On the way we made a mandatory stop at Murphy's ice cream. It moved from the location it had been in during my last two trips to Dublin, so I was initially afraid it was shut down. However, as we happened upon it while walking, it was necessary to enjoy some. I had sea salt and chocolate, and June had black currant and raspberry sorbet--I'd call it a win by all means. Murphy's is homemade in Dingle, and ranks in my favorite ice creams alongside Movenpick, Blue Bell, and Amy's.

Murphy's ice cream (now on Wicklow Street in Dublin)

Back at the hotel, I got to see my Uncle Todd and his three kids, and we visited for awhile before the extended group (about 16 of us) headed over to the Arlington Hotel for dinner and some traditional Irish dancing and music. Though some of the group complained it was too warm in the venue (they haven't been living without AC for as long as I have), it was a great meal and a great show. A few of us rallied together for the rest of the evening and enjoyed some Fruli at the Porterhouse (it's a strawberry beer, and drinking it at the Porterhouse has become a staple of my trips to Dublin). It was fun to visit with June, Todd, and Clay all together and in such an exciting setting, as it's rare for everyone to be able to take a break and enjoy one another's company. It was a rare privilege, especially considering that we were all pretty much phone free (since no one had data access).

Saturday we slept in a little less than Friday, but still enjoyed a lazy morning on June's birthday. We grabbed breakfast down from our hotel at a place called Lemon Jelly. After eating and working out plans for the day, part of our group went down to the artisan market on Cow's Lane. It has a cute combination of handmade arts and crafts type items, and there are several cute stores in the area as well. After our shopping, June and I decided to head over to Dublin Castle, as she hadn't seen it when she'd visited me the summer I lived in Dublin. My cousins Zac and Allie tagged along. It was a fun tour, as always, and afterwards we had drinks on the back patio, overlooking the Dublin Gardens (which aren't much in the way of gardens as they are manicured lawns, but they're pretty). We had a late lunch at Queen of Tarts, which is one of my favorite restaurants in all the world. My cousin Zac and I split a turkey and stuffing sandwich, on a caramelized onion focaccia, with a salad. The highlight however was the dessert. The four of us split 2 desserts, even though I was tempted to get my very own. As its name suggests, the Queen of Tarts makes the most amazing desserts. My choice was the special, a strawberry rhubarb crumble which was to die for!

Some of the family after shopping on Cow's Lane (btw, the suggestion for the photo was funny faces, which apparently only my 3 cousins and I took to heart)

Waterford crystal is only part of the beautiful detailing at Dublin Castle

Queen of Tarts on Cow's Lane, a must on any trip to Dublin

The rest of the afternoon was spent just wandering and enjoying the sunshine (and trying to walk off a few of the calories we'd consumed). We went over by an old castle, and discovered a beautiful wild garden in front of a church. We slowly made our way back to the Liffey, and finally back to the hotel. We tried to eat at Elephant and Castle for dinner, but they couldn't fit our big group in until 10 PM. We actually ended up eating at the Morrison Hotel restaurant, listed in many guidebooks and well reviewed for its quality Irish beef. It was delicious (and reasonably priced for a hotel restaurant, especially a hotel as nice as The Morrison). I had steamed mussels in bloody mary sauce (which were to die for) and then a beautiful filet.

June and I in the beautiful garden we happened upon on her birthday

Dinner was ended with a beautiful cake that my cousin Allie picked out for my Aunt June. It was white cake with layers of strawberry and chocolate filling, topped with strawberries, and surrounded by pieces of chocolate.

We ended the night at O'Neill's pub, with June and myself joined by family friends Margie and Kathy. Kathy's husband Joel even managed to rally and join us after about an hour out. I had my mandatory pint of Guinness for the trip, and many more Baby Guinness shots were enjoyed by the group. I'd say it was a solid birthday weekend for my Aunt!

Sunday came too quickly, and my family got ready to leave or head on their cruise. We enjoyed the last part of my day walking around the city. We made another stop at Avoca, and visited the foodie shop Fallon & Byrne. They had a beautiful cheese selection, and their cheesemonger introduced me to Coolattin cheddar, which I enjoyed with a few Fruli's at the Porterhouse before I headed to the airport. I couldn't have asked for a better way to spend my last weekend out of Warsaw before I head home--perfect city, beautiful weather, and great company.

Coolattin cheddar, my new fave, at Fallon & Byrne

Fruli beer at The Porterhouse

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